I care for all of my Rhacodactylus in almost the exact same way. Because of this, I have provided a care sheet to cover all of them, with notes on variances where appropriate. 

Feeding
I feed all of my Rhacs almost exclusively on the Repashy Superfoods produced by Allen Repashy. (Click here to learn more about this diet.) On occasion, I feed crickets, roaches, or even pinky mice as a treat for my geckos. In the wild, these geckos eat over ripe fruit and insects, and for this reason I do mix real fruit into the food from time to time.

Housing
I house all my geckos in either glass or plastic enclosures. I do not use all screen cages because I feel that it is too hard to keep humidity up this way. My enclosures are as small as the mid size plastic containers you can buy almost anywhere, up to 60 gallon custom built homes for my larger leachies. I provide more height than width for all of my geckos except for my gargoyles, which need more floor surface than height.

Humidity
All of the Rhacodactylus require a heavy misting at night, and should take most of the day to dry out. If you notice your geckos are drying out too fast, or if they are still wet when you go to re-mist, adjust accordingly.

Substrate
I use paper towel or commercial cage liners for all my geckos, but some people find coconut shell bedding more appealing. I do not recommend using this type of bedding if you are going to be feeding insects because it can cause intestinal impaction in your geckos. This also makes finding eggs a game of hide and seek. For breeding, I make a next box with the coconut bedding inside a plastic container set in a discreet corner of the tank, so I know exactly where to look for eggs.

Decoration
I make sure all of my geckos have cover at all levels of their cages. I place fake plants at all levels of the cage so they may move up and down picking a place they're comfortable as they would naturally. Using live plants is also a viable option, as long as it is a non toxic plant. Keeping your geckos without adequate hiding areas will stress them to a level that will prevent them from eating."

Heating and Lighting
I actually use no heating or lighting for my geckos. Room temperature is fine for them, but I tend to keep mine slightly warmer by placing their enclosures near my snake tanks. Whatever you prefer between 68 and 77 degrees should work fine for your collection.

Water
I keep a bowl of clean, filtered water in my cages at all times for my geckos, even though I rarely if ever see them drinking from them. Most of the water they need they will drink at night during your misting. Note that if you buy a gecko from me locally, you most likely have Chicago water, which is chlorinated. This makes Chicago water good for tank cleaning, but bad for gecko drinking. Yes, my geckos drink bottled water.

Why you shouldn’t feed baby food
With a chance of doing something like this to your animal, why risk it?
I have people tell me all the time that they still feed baby food, or that the breeder they bought from told them baby food was what their gecko should eat. I do admit that when I first bought a crested I fed baby food, and that I do know people that use baby food and appear to have no problem. However, I know of far, far more instances when the gecko suffered from serious metabolic bone disease due to the lack of good diet. Below you can see some pictures of two female gargoyles that are both two years old. The gargoyle on the left grew up on Repashy Superfoods only, and the one on the right on crickets and baby food.